Maybe you have an all-day layover or want to see the real France after a few days in Paris.
For me, it was the latter. When planning to see the reopened Notre Dame Cathedral, I also decided to spend a couple of nights at Charles de Gaulle Airport, as I had heard from a French friend of mine that a few local churches rivaled the art and architecture of notable churches in Paris.
Despite encompassing parts of the 12.5-acre airport, Roissy-en-France is the epitome of small-town France, even if 67 million people pass through the terminals every year.
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I didn’t quite grasp the naming conventions as it seemed like multiple layers of local and regional governments had lent their names to the area. Beyond the town (what the French call a commune) of Roissy-en-France are several other towns or villages in Greater Roissy’s countryside, also known as the Val-d’Oise or Oise Valley in English. Taking its name from the eponymous river, the Oise was historically the breadbasket of Paris.
The rural character is visible around Le Mesnil-Amelot, where cars and farmers driving big tractors share the roads.
Situated directly under Charles de Gaulle’s flight approach, Le Mesnil-Amelot is more of a village than Roissy-en-France. The hidden gem is St. Martin’s Church, an early 16th century church designed in the style of flamboyant Gothic with Renaissance influences.
Those wanting to maximize their limited time should go straight to Ecouen.
This sleepy bedroom community 10 miles by car from Roissy-en-France is home to Ecouen Castle. Built as a stately home for Anne de Montmorency, a powerful noble and statesman under several French kings, the Renaissance-era palace houses the National Renaissance Museum today. Between the architecture and interior decoration and the contents of the collection — once part of the better-known Cluny Museum — a visit to the museum is a must.
Right below the old castle is St. Acceul’s Church, which dates to the mid-16th century and owes its existence to Montmorency’s patronage. While the dedication is unique — there is little undisputed hagiography for Acceul — and the 19th century Renaissance revival west facade is eye-catching, the interior punches well above the weight of a small parish church.
If it feels unfinished, it’s because the French Wars of Religion between Protestants (Huguenots) and Roman Catholics interrupted construction. Highlights include an original 2,866-pound bell named after Montmorency, 11 Renaissance stained-glass windows and the altarpiece copy of Raphael’s famous “Transfiguration.”
The ornate Renaissance exterior missing from St. Acceul’s can be found 8 miles away in Luzarches at the Church of St. Cosmas and St. Damian.
The west facade with its rose window might have been rebuilt in the 16th century to conform to the then-fashionable Renaissance style, but a church has stood here for as long as anybody can remember. Parts of the bell tower and the interior arch separating the nave and chancel are Romanesque, dating back at least 900 years to the 11th century.
Luzarches also has a more provincial feel than Roissy-en-France and Ecouen. Besides the church, the quaint cityscape has numerous photo ops for the Instagram set. Landmarks include the old 13th century city gate and covered outdoor market hall, which hosts a market every Friday.
If you go
While I planned to see as much as possible, someone with just a half-day at Charles de Gaulle Airport would have enough time to leave the terminals and visit one or two places covered in the column.
All the churches that I visited are regularly open with no admission charge. Meanwhile, the National Renaissance Museum is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 5:15 p.m. Admission is €3.50 (about $3.60) per person.
I stayed in the heart of small-town Roissy-en-France at the Marriott Charles de Gaulle Airport Hotel. The hotel might be a little older, but the rooms are well-appointed and the overall standard is what you expect at a four-star chain hotel. Several restaurants are located within walking distance, including Le Village.
Taxis or rides through Uber are readily available, although a rental car is more sensible for excursions to Luzarches and Ecouen. Car rental agencies, including Avis, Hertz and Sixt, have on-airport locations just outside the arrivals area. My rental, a brand-new Opel crossover, featured built-in navigation. Without it, I would have needed my phone. So, either book a rental with GPS or plan to use a mapping application on your phone. While I experienced no issues driving in France, I did feel more comfortable after switching the vehicle settings to miles.
For additional information, the Grand Roissy Tourist Office has extensive visitor information and resources in English. They also have a physical office across the street from the Marriott.
Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.
Dennis Lennox writes about travel, politics and religious affairs. He has been published in the Financial Times, Independent, The Detroit News, Toronto Sun and other publications. Follow @dennislennox on Twitter.
